Tech Pack Guide: What Asian Manufacturers Actually Need

A tech pack is the most underrated document in fashion and apparel sourcing. Done well, it eliminates 80% of the back-and-forth between buyer and factory and produces accurate quotes on the first round. Done poorly, or skipped entirely, it guarantees confusion, missed details, and expensive sample rounds.

The gap between an amateur tech pack and a professional one is not artistic skill. It is structure, completeness, and clarity. This guide walks through what to include, in the format and detail that Asian manufacturers actually use during production.

Why tech packs matter more than most buyers realize

From the factory's perspective, every missing detail is either a guess, a question for the buyer, or an excuse if something goes wrong. A well-built tech pack does three things at once:

• Forces internal clarity: writing a complete tech pack forces you to make every design decision explicit, before they become production decisions
• Enables accurate quoting: suppliers price based on what they see — gaps in your tech pack become assumptions in their favor
• Creates accountability: when an order arrives, the tech pack is the reference document for what was specified versus what was delivered

The best sourcing relationships are built on documents, not conversations. Conversations get forgotten and reinterpreted. Documents don't.

The 9 sections every tech pack should contain

1. Cover sheet

One page with: product name and code, season or collection, version number, date of last update, buyer name and contact, intended size range, and any reference style numbers from previous production.

Version control matters. A tech pack that gets revised five times during sampling needs clear version numbers so the factory knows which one is current.

2. Technical drawings (front, back, side)

Flat sketches (called "flats" in the industry), not artistic renderings. Black line drawings showing the silhouette and all visible design elements: seams, panels, closures, pockets, trims, topstitching.

Include front, back, and at least one side view. If the product has interior details (linings, internal pockets, construction features), include interior views too.

3. Detail callouts

Zoomed-in views of specific construction features: how a zipper is set, how a collar is built, how a binding is finished. Each callout should have a clear arrow or reference to where it sits on the main drawing.

This is where most tech packs fail. A "regular collar" means nothing. A drawn detail showing fold-over depth, topstitching distance, and stitch count means something.

4. Bill of Materials (BOM)

A table listing every material in the product:

Specify Pantone codes for colors, GSM for fabrics, and brand requirements for trims that matter.

5. Measurement chart (size spec)

A table of every measurement point with tolerances, across all sizes. Common measurement points for tops include: chest, waist, hip, body length, sleeve length, shoulder width, neck opening, armhole.

Include tolerances (typically ±0.5 cm to ±1.5 cm depending on the point) and reference how each measurement is taken. "Chest measured 1 inch below armhole, flat, doubled" leaves no room for interpretation.

6. Construction details

How is each seam constructed? Specify:

• Stitch type and SPI (stitches per inch)
• Thread weight and color (matching or contrast)
• Seam finish (raw, overlocked, bound)
• Topstitching specifications where visible

7. Labels and packaging

Specify every label: main brand label, size label, care label, country of origin label. Include placement, dimensions, and artwork files. For packaging: polybag specs, hangtag artwork, folding instructions, master carton dimensions, units per carton.

Packaging is often where last-minute confusion strikes. Specify it as carefully as you specify the product itself.

8. Quality requirements

State the inspection standard (typically AQL 2.5 for major defects, AQL 4.0 for minor defects), any specific tests required (colorfastness, shrinkage, tear strength), and what constitutes a rejectable defect.

For technical apparel including equestrian, breeches, and outerwear, add functional tests: water resistance ratings, abrasion resistance, seam strength.

9. Reference samples or images

Whenever possible, attach reference photos of similar products you've produced before, competitor products with notes on what to copy and what to change, or fit samples from previous seasons.

A factory that sees three reference images of the silhouette you want will be 10x more accurate than one working from text descriptions alone.

What format to send it in

Practical recommendation: for most small and mid-sized buyers, an Excel master file for measurements and BOM, plus a PDF for drawings and construction details, is the optimal combination. Easy to update, easy to send, easy for factories to print and use on the floor.

Common tech pack mistakes

The most common errors that lead to sample failures:

• No measurement tolerances specified — factories use their own (typically generous)
• Color specified by name ("navy") instead of Pantone code
• Fabric weight (GSM) missing or vague
• Construction details described verbally instead of drawn
• No reference samples attached when they exist
• Updates sent piecemeal in emails instead of revised tech pack versions
• Packaging specs left to "we'll figure out later" — they cost time and money to figure out later

The reality of working without a tech pack

Some buyers skip the tech pack and rely on reference samples or verbal descriptions. This sometimes works for very simple products (basic T-shirts, plain bedsheets) with experienced suppliers. For anything more complex, it doesn't.

The cost of skipping a tech pack typically shows up as: more sample rounds, surprise charges during production, quality disputes after shipment, and inconsistent results across reorders.

How professional tech packs unlock better suppliers

Tier-1 factories are selective about which buyers they work with. A clean, professional tech pack signals that you are a serious buyer who will manage the relationship properly. The opposite signals an inexperienced buyer, and many strong factories will quietly route those inquiries to junior staff or pass entirely.

Your tech pack is your business card with manufacturers. The quality of the document tells them what kind of partner you are likely to be.